Friday, June 24, 2016

Kiska & Tell - Are You Adventury Enough?

Earlier this month I had the great pleasure of taking part in a focus group in a luxury hotel in the Alps, whose purpose was to give feedback to KTM as they design the next-generation adventure bikes. Wait, what? Listen, and I’ll say it slowly: Adventure bikes. Focus group. In the Alps. In a 4-star hotel. With a bunch of very adventury riders. And yes, it was every bit as cool as it sounds.

Here’s how it came to pass: The Austrian design firm Kiska, which is responsible for designing motorcycles and more for KTM, organized the focus group to ask some ‘adventure riders’ in person what they would want in the next generation of adventure bikes. They happened to find me while searching the forums on ADVRider.com, where I have posted a handful of times. For example, I posted when someone started a thread called ‘What did you name your bike?’ (Padfoot), and ‘Let’s see your 1200GS’ (photo of Padfoot). And I posted several times when some guys from Hamburg wrote in on the Germany-specific forum asking for advice riding around this area.

Kiska saw my proximate location, which is self-reported as ‘the foothills of the Bavarian Alps’, so they sent me a PM – private message – through the forum, which at first glance looked a lot like spam, what with them hinting that they might like to invite me to a hotel in the Alps for a weekend event. The first thing I thought of was one of those ‘free seminars’ which amounts to trapping the unsuspecting in a conference room until they agree to buy a timeshare condo or become vitamin distributors. Happily, this was not the case. A few emails later and a little internet snooping on my part turned up the fact that Kiska is the real deal. Really real.

Tanja from Kiska interviewed me by telephone for a half-hour about my riding activities, and somehow I must have said the right things, because an email arrived soon after, verifying their invitation for me to join ten other guys for an all-expenses-paid night on June 4th at the Hotel Enzian in the Austrian Alps, on the condition that I ride there on my adventure bike, and talk to them about riding. Oh, throw me in the briar patch!

During the phone interview, Tanja asked me several times from various angles about off-road riding – which is something I don’t so much seek out as sort of happen to do when the road I’m riding turns from pavement into a tractor path or forest passage (with no signs restricting vehicular access, as one usually finds here). I relish those occasions, but they are few and far between. The fact that it had happened to me just a couple of weeks before my Kiska interview gave me a recent anecdote to relate, but I’m no off-road enthusiast by any stretch.

Other than continuing a few km on a farm or forest path, I can count on one hand the times in the last decade I’ve managed any truly non-pavement progress: there were a couple of times on Ol’ Blue in the Italian Alps at an enduro park near Passo Croce Domini, and there were the miles of fire roads that Sabo and I rode in Washington when I visited him in 2012. That’s about it. I guess if you go back far enough, I had some dirt bike experiences in the California desert several decades ago. Anyhow, I guess I mentioned enough dirt to be invited, even if in reality I’m 99.9% an asphalt dweller.

The event kicked off at 3 pm on Saturday June 4, 2016 at the Hotel Enzian in Landeck, Austria. Things got started with a meet-and-greet, which is when I first noticed how little I could understand of the thick, rolling Austrian dialect of most of attendees. There were three German guys I could understand pretty well, and fortunately, the Kiska staff of Tanja, Anita, and Christof all spoke excellent English. Some of the other attendees did, too, and were kind enough to do so with me.
Christof (2nd from left), Anita and Tanja from Kiska Design

The Kiska team split us into two smaller groups for a round-table discussion, where we were asked a lot of questions. The first one was, ‘What does adventure mean to you?’ I promptly fielded it with the answer, ‘Adventure is what you get when you don’t get what you wanted,’ which brought a round of laughter and cheers from the other guys at my table. I can honestly say that was the last time I had a firm grasp on the conversation. After that, there was a vociferous debate about proper adventure bikes and… well, I’m not sure what all, as trying to follow impenetrable dialects at the table sank my ship of comprehension. Sorry, but input like that simply overwhelms the processing capacity of my brain’s language module. 


Round-table discussion, in a language nearly like German

After the meeting, Christof offered to lead us out on a group ride, but I, and most of the others, declined to go on the ride due to the pouring rain. Adventure is one thing, senselessness another. 

The evening dinner was another one of those German-language events which strain my abilities. Fortunately, I sat next to Christof and was able to chat a bit in English some of the time. After dinner we were herded into a small meeting room for slides and presentations from each of the attendees. We had all been asked to send over 5 photos from a memorable trip before the event; I picked that trip to visit Sabo in 2012.

As they went around the room asking the guys to explain their photos and tell the story of that trip, it became apparent I was in the company of some major badass round-the-world (RTW) adventure riders. ‘My buddy and I went to the North Cape of Norway. Twice, actually. Once in summer, and once in winter. Here are the pictures of the winter trip – 4000 kilometers on ice and snow, with temperatures down to minus 38. We wanted to see the polar lights.” Then, “My girlfriend and I rode enduros from Morocco to South Africa down the west coast of Africa. We got delayed at one border and had to wait a week for our visas, during which time the rainy season began. The roads turned to mud and swarms of mosquitos came out.” And, “Rode from Alaska to Mexico, camping all the way. Up north, the blackflies were horrible and the wolves in the forest worried me at night.” “I shipped my bike to New Zealand and spent four weeks riding around both islands. My friend injured his shoulder so I was on my own the whole first week of riding. Here I am on a glacier.” “My girlfriend and I went off-road through Romania, Bulgaria, and the Balkans.” “I rode from Germany to Baghdad.” The room was positively bristling with Adventure Riding badassery.

When my turn came, in my best low-intermediate German, I told the story of how I’d gone to the States to celebrate my 50th birthday with my best friend Jeff Sabo, the happiest man I know, who has a nice collection of adventure bikes, and we rode them all. I rode to the Pacific Ocean where the Columbia River flows into it under the Astoria Bridge 5 kilometers across, rode the Klickitat Canyon wilderness area in Washington with trees as far as the eye can see and volcanos in the background, the miles and miles of lonely gravel fire roads with no cell phone signal or help nearby if you crash. I emphasized the off-road parts of the riding, without mentioning that we managed to make it back to civilization every night for sustenance and re-hydration therapy in the pubs of Portland. Not very badass, but plenty fun, and quite memorable. At least it involved going to another continent.

Here are the pictures I showed them:


Jeff's collection of Adventure Bikes ( there are 2 more bikes you don't see)


Klickitat Wilderness Area fire roads

Pristine mountain lake, woods as far as the eye can see


Suavie Island with a view to the Willamette River


SE Washington, Mt. Adams in the background, traffic state zero

The presentations finally wrapped up around 10:30 pm and we all headed to bar for some much needed fresh air and liquid refreshment. I complimented several of my peers on their RTW achievements, and, perhaps a little too defensively, pointed out that I had, after all, moved 10,000 km from my home in southern California expressly to go motorcycling in the Alps and wallow in the camaraderie of the European moto-culture, and that every ride I take – indeed, every time I leave my house – I’m in a foreign country with a foreign culture and a foreign language. That should count as being adventury, shouldn’t it? Do I really have to suffer mosquitoes, wolves, and mud to count it an adventure? My new friends politely agreed, and changed the subject. I sulkily drank one more beer than I needed to, and headed for bed.


Don't be fooled - these guys are badass Adventure Riders


Hotel Enzian bar has various pics of bikes, & one of a helicopter. Yay helicopters!

Next morning after breakfast the Kiska crew took us one by one out to our motorbikes for a personal interview. Anita invited me to go first at 8:00, which I was happy to do so that I could get on the road and be home by lunchtime. She asked me lots of questions about how I’d customized the bike, what I want and don’t want in a bike, ergonomic preferences, the luggage system, and a lot more I don’t remember now. She also asked me to explain my riding gear – a pet topic of mine, you know – and I was happy to expound, though I’m pretty sure I didn’t make a lot of sense. I’m not good at pop quizzes. I would have given better answers if they had thought to send me the questions a week in advance.

The interview went on for the better part of an hour, at which time Anita patted my arm and said, ‘Well I think you’re an adventure rider.” Aww, shucks. Glad I qualify, Anita.

I was thanked for my participation, dismissed, and invited to take a KTM backpack as a parting gift. I scampered off to my room to pack and gear up, check out of the hotel, and load the bike. I bid everyone farewell and headed off in the rain around 9:30. I managed to forget my free backpack.

I discovered to my abundant pleasure that if you want to ride on empty roads in the Austrian Alps, go riding in pouring rain at 9:30 on a Sunday morning. All my gear is Gore-Tex lined, so the rain is hardly bothersome, and the empty roads magnificent. A sunny day with lots of traffic isn’t necessarily an improvement. Kudos to the Michelin Pilot Road 4 Trail tires that have seemingly unlimited grip in the wet.


Roadside view towards Landeck under threatening skies on Saturday

As I hoped, I was home in time for lunch, and a much needed nap as I had papa duty to take Anika to her school choir concert in the late afternoon. The choir concert was actually really fun. The school orchestra performed on half the songs, and altogether there were 220 kids in the orchestra pit and on stage. From a school of only 1100 kids, that’s quite the talent ratio. The concert was two hours long, giving me lots of time to reflect on my riding history and what the word adventure really means to me.

So, am I an Adventure Rider? I’d kinda thought I was, at least in my own way. But after thinking about it, I realized the problem isn’t with my answer, it's with the question. It’s the No True Scotsman fallacy all over again – there’s always going to be someone out there who, no matter what you do, keeps moving the goalposts. He'll say, “He’s no true Adventure Rider. A true Adventure Rider rides on knobby tires, sleeps in the dirt, and eats roadkill cooked on the hot motor,” or some such crap.

Think of all the times you’ve heard it: Real pilots fly taildraggers. Real sailors sail in salt water. Real rock guitarists use Marshall amps. Real beer drinkers drink Guinness. Real jazz fans understand Mingus. Real runners don’t quit when their knees hurt, they run through the pain. (I fail on all these tests.) Are you a real adventure rider? It sounds to me like little more than a marketing ploy to get you to buy the bike so that you can claim the title, whether or not you have adventure in your heart.



Here is Triumph selling "The Best Equipment for Real Adventurers" to the German-speaking market

I know the argument, I heard it over the weekend: to the serious RTW rider, a guy on an adventure bike that doesn’t leave the pavement is like a guy in a Land Rover that doesn’t leave the city, who simply wants to be seen as adventuresome. But that analogy fails on a crucial point: It’s not what he drives -- it’s that the city guy stays put in his comfortable world, making the same stops around the same routes. And what is the meaning of adventure, after all, if it’s not pushing outside your personal zone of comfort, of exploring the world outside your usual orbit just to discover what’s there, to see what you’ll see, to meet who you’ll meet? You don’t need an ‘Adventure Bike’ or need be an ‘Adventure Rider’ to do that. You just need to do it. Adventure comes from your heart, not your equipment.

So thanks Anita, but it’s okay with me if I’m not a real Adventure Rider in the eyes of the marketing department, or anyone else. In fact, I’m satisfied just being a rider of any kind.

Now, let’s go riding!

Friday, February 27, 2015

Switchbacks

Nice view of the switchbacks going up the...is it the east side of Passo Stelvio? First person to positively identify the pass wins a self-paid trip to that pass this summer.

[Update 28 Feb 2016: We have a winner! Stefan S. has identified the pic as Gotthard Pass in central Switzerland. Good job, Stefan!]


Thursday, February 12, 2015

New Helmets for 2015 Riding Season

Got the Vauxhall GT-Air in the post today. It's fantastic quality. Unbelievably good fit and finish.
The Hornet DS was a present from Sabo for my 50th two years ago when I rode with him in Oregon. I swore I'd come back to Portland soon and use it, but after two riding seasons of it doing nothing more than degassing on a shelf, I asked him to send it to me. I decorated it with a bit of blue tape, which makes it look a bit less like I'm guarding the Millennium Falcon. I'm sure looking forward to the warm summer days when its great ventilation will be a treat. Click on pic to check out these beauties!


Sunday, February 8, 2015

New Hat on the Way!

Ordered this lid from Great Britain today. Can't wait for riding season to begin!


Details: It's a Shoei GT-Air, a full-face helmet with a drop-down sunvisor like the Schuberth it's replacing. Slipping it on head is like, as Sabo says, 'putting your head in  a velvet bordello'.

I love the (unintentional) U.S. Coast Guard motif, and I like that it ‘speaks English’ including sporting the name Vauxhall on the back, which is not only the moniker of the German car builder Opel as badged in Great Britain, it is – according to Wikipedia – the name of “an 18th century pleasure garden in New York City.”

In fact, the graphics commemorate an annual 200-mile road race in Northern Ireland. Takes place on public roads through villages and hedgerows a la Isle of Man.

Shoei only made 350 of these, so if you see someone wearing it in the Alps, that'll probably be me.

What's that you say? You don't have a lid with a drop-down sunvisor in it? I’m not kidding you when I say that I will never be without such a lid on hand, and that it’ll be my primary hat for almost all uses. You owe it to yourself to test ride such a lid before you buy your next normal non-sunvisor lid. (and I recommend a GT-Air, of course). Find a store that’ll let you borrow one for an hour (easily done here, if not there) and then go for a ride in changing light conditions. The ideal test conditions are found on a day with the sun poking between scattered to broken clouds, on roads that go in and out of dense forests – a scenario which describes a great deal of the riding over here.

I used to ride with sunglasses all the time on even moderately bright days, even with the drop-down sunvisor installed, because I liked the tint and optical perfection of the Serengetis more that the plastic sunvisor. But the quality of those visors has improved a lot in recent years and now I don’t bother with the Serengetis, I just rely on my integral sunvisor to do the job. As a result the lid is comfier and quieter, and my eyes are never so blinded by sunbright that I wish I had my Serengetis on in addition. It took me years to figure out that the intensity of sun up here at 47 degrees latitude, even on the most perfect cloudless summer day, is far less than what I’d lived with for 40 years down at 32 degrees in San Diego, here. Now my challenge is to remember to bring my Serengetis with me so that I have them when I take my lid off – a mistake I’ve made a couple of times. Checklist, please.

Friday, October 31, 2014

Last ride in the Alps for 2014 -- Furkajoch, Austria

The road is closed now to get to the top and over the Furkajoch pass, the crest of which is about another two kilometers further from where I’m parked. See the bar across the road about 50 m back in picture 2? One nice thing about riding a closed pass road is the near complete absence of traffic.

Check out that little bit of blue sky to the west in the second photo. I started the day with the idea of going east after this and deeper into the Alps, but I elected to follow that bit of blue sky which turned out to be a good idea. Coming back down the hills to the Lake Constance area was stunning under sunny skies.





Wednesday, August 20, 2014

New skins!

My new tires – Michelin Pilot Road 4 Trails – are anything but knobby, so don't look to my GS to pose for any of those RTW (round-the-world) posters. Michelin says they are "designed for large adventure bikes that spend almost all their time on pavement." That'd be me, then.
 
My first impression is one of pure amazement, as they come out of the mold with no mold-release compound so they’re ready to rock from the moment you roll. Of course, anytime you put new tires on it’s like buying a new bike, so any first impression would have to be positive, wouldn’t it? 
 

I bought them on the internet and removed the wheels myself, taking everything to a nearby auto-tire shop that mounts & balances them for 25 bucks. Total cost: around 250 euros, compared with around 400 euros if I had taken  the bike to the BMW dealer and let them do the job, as they always insist on supplying the tires (at quite a markup) and then charging full shop rates for installation.

To my budget, the 150-euro savings I eked out equals one long overnight trip to Italy. But best of all, I just like the feeling I get from working on my own bike. 

Update: 1000 km on, they are the best, I mean THE BEST, tires I've ever had on any bike I've ever ridden. Result! 


Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Should I Be Worried About Riding In Switzerland?

Got asked about riding in Switzerland and the Alps in general by an American guy who was worried he'd be overwhelmed by the Alpine experience and swarmed by faster riders as he putters along enjoying the scenery. Here's what I told him:

There’s nothing about the tightness of the roads, the sharpness of the curves or the mountain altitudes that makes riding here a recipe for disaster. Just go ahead and ride slowly – lots of people do – and enjoy the vistas. Set realistic goals for a day’s ride, with lots of time budgeted for photos stops – you’ll want to take one approximately every seven meters. 

Add time for long coffee and meal breaks and you’ll be lucky to ride 200 km per day. A good way to calculate riding times here is that one mile of riding in the States = one km in the Alps. Overall, you’ll be lucky to average 50 km/h in Switzerland. The maximum permissible speed on the backroads is 80 km/h, and the Swiss take speed enforcement to a spectacular level of efficiency, complete with hidden speed cameras and LIDAR armed personnel, all coupled with exorbitant fines. (In extreme cases they may charge one-third of an offender’s annual income. Yes, really.) One must be vigilant for speed limit signs everywhere, as the limit may change for noise abatement in a nature preserve or any other reason, so it’s not always intuitive what the limit of any stretch of road might be as it tends to be here in Germany, or in Austria. 

Anyway, you generally won’t find crazy knee-down riders destroying your confidence while you putter along; instead you’ll find well-disciplined riders sharing the road with you who are also trying to follow the rules while enjoying the scenery. Slightly faster riders will pass you politely, with a wave or a foot stuck out to say hi. And yeah, once in a great while a crazy knee-down rider will pass you. No big. Let it go. 

And speaking of waving, you’ll see a thousand bikes on the roads, and they all wave to each other. And, just like in the States, they pump their hand in a downward motion when they mean for you to ride with caution due to speed enforcement or an accident around the next bend. 

In all, the feeling of solidarity among riders here is very high. You’ll always have the feeling you are among friends. And you are.